I thought I'd do a quick review blog, but it's turned into a bit of a monster. But first an aside; I used to read in my teens some 4-8 books a week, sometimes many more; even in my late thirties and forties I read at least one book a week. And then, working with computers and print for such a long time got to my eyes and I had to wear reading glasses. The point of this is that I now select very carefully what I read - part of this is that I get headaches when I read, so it has to be worth it.
So to
"A Taste of My Life" by Raymond Blanc. (Corgi books, £8.99 pbk) I've always been fascinated by this man; why did he come to the UK, why has he stayed, how did he get started - it's a fascinating story. But, don't expect a connected narrative; it is more a collection of stories, ideas and recipes and is very cleverly put together so that each informs the other in the sequence of his life. I'm guessing that M.
Blanc does not get
much time for writing and wants to make it count!
I found particularly interesting some of the general comments on cooking; Chapter Twenty-four is called Thought and is about salt and seasoning in general. And not the least is the observation which I have known, mutely, all my latter cooking life, that when you add seasoning during the progress of the cooking, it will differ in strength and effect. I know that's obvious, but boy, does it need saying. With some dishes if you forget an ingredient it behoves you to think long and hard about the effects of adding it in later; garlic and salt are two things that spring to mind where the effects are totally different, if added at the start or at the end.
The insight into his childhood and French country life is fascinating to a
francophile like myself (and for more of the same in visual form, watch the beautiful and poetic
Etre et Avoir; it's subtitled, but very much worth watching).
His final chapter is about the future and particularly the future in terms of the food chain and what and how we get our food. The mere mention of the word carbon footprint raises the spectre of things like responsible eating! Which brings me on to something I bought from my local
Tesco's. I was looking for some reasonably dense-fleshed white fish to cook - going past the counters I spotted
Pangasius hypophthalmus or
River Cobbler as it's known in English. I read the label (I do that nowadays, even if it means laboriously taking my glasses out of their case) and discovered that it was farmed fish from Vietnam. Now I knew it was from Vietnam, because I'd watched Rick Stein's Far Eastern Odyssey. But I hadn't realised that it was also farmed.
So I thought I'd try it. It comes in fillets and the structure of the flesh is firm, but there are what appears to be sorts of,
hmm, ligaments running in the same way that bones would run, so I guess this this is why there are nil bones in it. After unwrapping the fish I saw that it has a slight pink tinge to them, but don't have a fishy smell; in fact hardly any smell at all.
The bony ligaments (for want of a better word) are held together by one central ligament, which I decided to remove, so making two half fillets; I then cut the remaining into chunks. Now this is a really solid flesh and the ligaments that remained are quite evident when you cut them and also when you eat the fish. I tried these twice - once by giving them about 12 minutes cooking (with other ingredients) and once about 8 minutes cooking. For my taste (given that I use a lot of SE Asian spices in my cooking) the former is better as the extra 4 minutes helps to break down the ?collagen in the ligament thingies. There's a springy texture when you bite into it which I found disconcerting when cooked the 8 minute time.
One review by
Tune57 on Ciao gives the following method:
"Having not tasted them before, I decided to keep the cooking of them relatively simple by dipping them in flour and then beaten egg before coating them in fresh wholemeal breadcrumbs, mixed with some lemon zest and a little dill. These were then lightly fried in a little olive oil for around 5 minutes on each side, before being devoured alongside a green salad and some new potatoes.The flesh of this fish turned a delectable ivory colour once cooked and had a lovely clean, juicy and delicate taste, not that dissimilar to Cod or Sole, but without the hefty price tag."I've since googled around and come across some horrifying stories of food poisoning, polluted environments, and so on. A bit reminiscent of the salmon with sea lice stories that applied to one
particular farm and hit the livelihood of all those farming salmon. Given that we eat fish like sole, cod and
monkfish that spend their lives sucking the bottom of the seas around our coastline, I think it behoves us to try and keep a sense of proportion!
I think air miles may be more of a problem than pollution, but the amount of sustainable fish available in the UK is pretty limited and the bottom-feeders like cod,
monkfish or plaice are already very much at risk. When did you last see plaice in any quantity (wonderful with
beurre noisette and new potatoes)? But unlike
Tune57 I felt river cobbler was more of a carrier food than having any special merit.